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V6 now gone bang


 
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Pauly
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Joined: 10 Mar 2010
Posts: 6
Location: Horsham

PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 18:55    Post subject: V6 now gone bang Reply with quote

Further to my last post with engine woes, her indoors was about to take the car for an MOT re-test after I'd done some work to try and get it through when it suddenly stopped. Further attempts at a re-start produced that old terminal whirring noise, so I'm guessing the cam chain has snapped. Can anyone tell me if this is the end of engine event that I'm expecting or did Suzuki, by some chance, design the engines so that the valves don't clout the pistons when one or the other stops moving?
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Pauly
Newbie


Joined: 10 Mar 2010
Posts: 6
Location: Horsham

PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 8:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, so I've established that valves and pistons do in fact meet in the middle............has anyone got a spare V6 they don't want  Rolling Eyes Seriously though, I guess replacing the engine will be the cheaper option, as opposed to rebuilding the heads and a new camchain kit. I've done a couple of engine swaps in my time, hopefully there won't be any special 'Suzuki surprises' waiting for me under the bonnet.
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Dribbler
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Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 15:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
Did u get around to swapping engines on your V6 ?
I'm just about to do this on mine (hole in side if block!) & was wondering what snags/problems u found.
The Haynes manual does not cover the V6 2 litre & nobody seems to do one.
Mine is an autobox.
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me and the wife
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Joined: 07 Aug 2007
Posts: 1013
Location: gosport

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 15:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

it cant be that bad to do just take your time and take lots of notes and pictures  Very Happy
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Pauly
Newbie


Joined: 10 Mar 2010
Posts: 6
Location: Horsham

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 19:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I did do it and no, there was nothing unusual or difficult. I took the engine out without the gearbox. Tie the bonnet up out of the way. Make sure the front of the car is jacked up, it helps with the angles. Use the rings fitted to the block for hoisting, also helps get the engine hang at the right angle to allow it and the g'box to seperate. The only real stumbling block was disconnecting the exhausts. I undid the system at the headers and there were lots of seized nuts and bolts. Make sure you have an angle grinder to hand. The access is pretty limited but it was the only way to get the 'Y' piece disconnected from the headers. It might be worth considering changing the hydraulic camchain tensioner whilst the engine is out, if you are not already doing so. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any more questions.  Wink
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Dribbler
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Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 15:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you take the front axle out to get at the engine/gearbox bolts? -I can't seem to get a spanner on the 3 top ones without having to move the engine/gearbox forwards to get at them.
I think I've taken off/removed virtually everything- just need to split engine/gearbox now.
Was yours an auto?
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Pauly
Newbie


Joined: 10 Mar 2010
Posts: 6
Location: Horsham

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 21:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, axle stayed in. I took off all the induction system so there was room to get your hands around the back. The pipes are all shaped and have different bores so you shouldn't have any probs getting them back in the right place. Some were easier from underneath the car. There was certainly room for a socket spanner. Mine is a manual, but the bell housing should be the same.
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