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Wheel bearing replacement guide


 
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ideal_dog
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Joined: 18 Mar 2010
Posts: 307
Location: Daventry, Northampton

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 17:18    Post subject: Wheel bearing replacement guide Reply with quote

Hi everybody,

I damaged a wheel bearing playing over Whaddon 4x4 track last weekend.
I contacted zocko for replacement bearings which he supplied with next day delivery at a very reasonable price. He suggested I do a step by step guide for the forum, which I thought was a great idea and so I did it.

It does go on a bit which I apologize for, but I just couldn't make it any smaller.

Please see below.
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My neighbors don't like my mud splattered Suzuki. Do I look bothered?
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ideal_dog
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Joined: 18 Mar 2010
Posts: 307
Location: Daventry, Northampton

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 17:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is my step by step guide to replacing the front wheel bearings on a Suzuki Samurai.

I’ll start by saying I’m not a mechanic and had no book to guide me through this process, it was all done figuring it out as I went along, so if anyone follows this guide and things go wrong, it’s not my fault, this was just how I did the job.

Start by slightly loosening the wheel nuts and the bolts which hold the cover in place for the wheel bearing.

Then jack the car up and place axle stands and wheel chocks in place then remove the front wheel.

Over the back of the wheel hub you’ll see the two bolts which hold the calliper in place, undo these two bolts.

Then carefully remove the calliper and place it out of the way. I used some wedges between the pads to prevent them from closing whilst I was doing the job.

Next before you remove all the bolts from the bearing cover, pry off the brass cap to reveal the circlip that is fitted. You will have to use a flat screw driver or similar around the base of the cap to work it loose. Try twisting the screw driver once you have enough room to get the blade in there.

Once you’ve removed the cap you’ll be able to see the circlip that needs removing.

Undo the rest of the bolts that hold the bearing cover in place and remove the circlip.


Then using a chisel and hammer tap the bearing cover lose and remove it carefully.

You’ll now be able to see the 50mm bearing lock nut and tab washer. Tap the tabs back to allow the use of a 50mm socket.

The nut wont be done up very tight, just undo it and place it somewhere safe.


Remove the tab washer and place that with the nut just removed.

Then remove the second 50mm nut and place it with the other bits. This wont be very tight either.

Then remove the washer that sits on the bearing. Put it with the rest of the bits.

You can now remove the front bearing. You may have to wobble the disc around a bit to get it to move forward enough to get a hold of the bearing.

Now get a pry bar behind the disc and gently ease the disc hub off. I had to rock it in an up and down movement.


Next undo the brake disc guard so that you can get to the rear bearing which will probably still be on the shaft.

Don’t completely remove one of the bottom bolts yet. Pry the disc guard away from the knuckle joint first.
If you remove all of the bolts, the whole knuckle pulls away which isn’t a major problem but can be avoided by taking care at this stage.


Once you’ve removed the disc guard, put a couple of the bolts back in to keep the knuckle in place.

Now you can use a hammer and chisel to tap down behind the rear bearing so that you can drive it forward along the shaft.

Keep working it until you get it off.

Now pick the bearing seal away.

Give everything a good clean.


Now place the hub on something to avoid damaging the wheel nuts or anything, and using a chisel tap the bearing seats out of hub.
There are two to remove, one from the front side and one from the back.




Clean everything again and get your new bearings out of the packet.

Place the first bearing seat into the hole on the rear side of the hub. The fat bit goes away from you.
You’ll now need to carefully drive it into the hole and all the way home. I used the 50mm socket which was a perfect size. Be sure to not damage it.
Drive it squarely into the hole and all the way home.




Now take your new bearing and put plenty of grease around it before putting it in position.

Now take the bearing seal which should have come with your new bearings, and place that over the bearing with the recessed side facing the bearing.


Use the same method to drive it home as you did for the bearing seat.


Now turn the hub over and drive the front bearing seat into place exactly as you did with the rear side.




You’re nearly done now!!

Put the disc guard back on and tighten the nuts up.

Carefully slide the hub back on the shaft. You may have to tap it gently to get it to go all the way back.

Grease up the new bearing for the front side of the hub and put it in place.

Put the washer back that goes next to the bearing.

Replace the first nut. Don’t over tighten it.

Now at this point I loosely replaced my front wheel so that I could spin the wheel and check for free movement without play in the bearing.
There is probably a better way of doing this, but this worked for me. I span the wheel and kept tightening the nut until I felt slight resistance. Then I loosened the nut quarter of turn so that there was no more resistance and checked that there was no play in the bearing by gripping the wheel and trying to rock it.

When you’re satisfied that the bearing nut is tight enough, remove the wheel again and replace the tab washer.

Then replace the lock nut.

Bend at least one tab backwards and one forwards to prevent the nuts from being able to work loose.


Now take this thing which I keep calling a bearing cover, clean it and I didn’t know whether to put grease on the back of it or not, so I did anyway.


Put a few of the bolts back in and tighten them as best you can for now. Keep one of the bolts out because it fits in the end of the shaft and you’ll need to pull the shaft forward so you can refit the circlip.


Once you fitted your circlip, replace the brass cap.

Replace the calliper being careful that you don’t damage or twist your flexi hoses. You may need to tap the calliper into position once you’ve got the pads over the disc a bit. Be careful not to damage your pads.

Refit your wheel, lower the car and tighten the wheel nuts and the bearing cover nuts.


That’s it, job done! It looks quite long and drawn out in this guide, but in actual fact it only took a little while.
I replaced both my front bearings in a couple of hours.
This is the reason I did the job. The drivers side wheel bearing disintegrated after a day over Whaddon 4x4 track. The ground was really hard and my car suffered. I changed the passenger side too, although I don’t think it really needed doing.


I hope you enjoyed this guide and it becomes of some use to someone  Very Happy
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Alan

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My neighbors don't like my mud splattered Suzuki. Do I look bothered?


Last edited by ideal_dog on Sun Sep 11, 2011 18:17; edited 1 time in total
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zocko
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
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Location: Southampton

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice guide, if you send me the pics, ill write up a full guide and sends it back to you in pdf format so you can keep it on disc and post it on a file sharing site?
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the car in front is a toyota...

the car pulling it out of the mud is a suzuki
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me and the wife
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Joined: 07 Aug 2007
Posts: 1013
Location: gosport

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 14:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

zocko wrote:
nice guide, if you send me the pics, ill write up a full guide and sends it back to you in pdf format so you can keep it on disc and post it on a file sharing site?


youve got too much time fella Very Happy
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ideal_dog
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Joined: 18 Mar 2010
Posts: 307
Location: Daventry, Northampton

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 19:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

zocko wrote:
nice guide, if you send me the pics, ill write up a full guide and sends it back to you in pdf format so you can keep it on disc and post it on a file sharing site?


Will do mate. I'll start tomoz as I'm off to the pub in a mo  Very Happy
It'll be a few emails though as there's a lot of pictures.

I agree with "me and the wife", you must have too much spare time. However, it'd be nice to have it in a downloadable format, just wish I had the patience to do it  Wink
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zocko
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 1:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

me and the wife wrote:
zocko wrote:
nice guide, if you send me the pics, ill write up a full guide and sends it back to you in pdf format so you can keep it on disc and post it on a file sharing site?


youve got too much time fella Very Happy


nah, ill just do it at work lol
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the car pulling it out of the mud is a suzuki
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me and the wife
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Location: gosport

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 7:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol, thats ok then..... Very Happy
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smcclellan
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Joined: 11 Sep 2011
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 17:59    Post subject: PDF Reply with quote

zocko wrote:
nice guide, if you send me the pics, ill write up a full guide and sends it back to you in pdf format so you can keep it on disc and post it on a file sharing site?


Hello, I just got a Samurai and need to change the front wheel bearings. I found this post and it looks like what I need, but all the photos are evidently gone. I was wondering if you did indeed create a pdf of this? If so, could you send me the file or a link to it? Thanks so much!

Steven
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ideal_dog
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Joined: 18 Mar 2010
Posts: 307
Location: Daventry, Northampton

PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 18:19    Post subject: Re: PDF Reply with quote

smcclellan wrote:
Hello, I just got a Samurai and need to change the front wheel bearings. I found this post and it looks like what I need, but all the photos are evidently gone. I was wondering if you did indeed create a pdf of this? If so, could you send me the file or a link to it? Thanks so much!

Steven

Hello mate,

I think they're all back on here now.
I had moved some things about in my photobucket and somehow changed the folder name, sorry  Embarassed

Good luck
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Alan

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xteamus
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Joined: 20 Sep 2012
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 5:29    Post subject: 2WD Sammi Reply with quote

Would this procedure be the same for a 2WD model?  My buddy has one that needs replacement. Thx!
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dl1961
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Joined: 27 Dec 2012
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 6:23    Post subject: Replacing Front Bearings Reply with quote

Thanks Ideal Dog:

I just finished replacing the brake pads, calipers and rotors on my 1987 Samurai.  Passenger side is fine but driver's side has about 1/8" play in it that is causing the brakes to grind.  Your simple, step by step was very clear and visual.  I'm off tomorrow morning to do this job myself.  If the passenger side is not causing a problem do you think it's okay to let it go for now.  (Auto Parts store only had bearings for one side available today.)

DL1961 Question
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zocko
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 10:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

it should be fine of you only replace the bearing thats worn...

if it aint broke dont fix it
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dl1961
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Joined: 27 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 7:08    Post subject: Wheel Bearing Wobble Reply with quote

Thanks Zocko:

After following the instructions I reached the first 50mm nut on the hub.  I was able to turn it with my hand.  I checked out the bearings and they all looked fine or at least similar in movement and play to the new ones.  After cleaning everything up and regreasing it all, I followed the instructions and the wobble was gone.  There is a slight grinding sound when I make a left hand turn but not if I am applying the brakes.  Otherwise the wheel and hub spin freely.  I am going to drive it some more and then check the wear on the new pads and rotor.  If it looks good I will just return the new bearnings.

dl1961
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johnjoshyy
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Joined: 16 Feb 2013
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 8:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think in suzuki the only car i like is mehran... but dont know why thay are changing the shape..
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deets
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Joined: 30 May 2017
Posts: 1
Location: NEVADA

PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2017 5:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, im trying to find a way to get the rear bearings off. I have a repair manual and only thing i see in there if for front and I dont want to start banging on things until i know what im doing and dont want to damage it of course. any links or tips what ever would be appreciated.
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